How to Use Tsaoko
The Soul of the Broth
Smoky · Camphorous · Citrusy · Resinous
Tsaoko is the big, smoky pod behind some of Asia's greatest broths, from Vietnamese phở to Chinese master stocks and Sichuan hot pot. Crack one into a simmering pot and it slowly unfurls, taming rich meats and tying every other spice together.
FORMS
- Whole: Buying pods is the way to go. The husks keep the seeds and their oils sealed in, and a whole pod is easy to fish out of a pot. Look for large, plump, reddish-brown pods.
- Ground: Pre-ground tsaoko is sold in China, but it's very hard to find elsewhere, which isn't that big of a deal since whole is what you want to buy anyway. Grind your own and use it in rubs and stir-fries.
STORAGE
- Whole: Kept airtight in a cool, dry, dark place, whole pods hold their aroma far longer than ground. To check them, crack one open: the reddish-brown seeds inside should be strongly aromatic. If they smell faint, it's time to restock.
- Ground: Tsaoko should be ground fresh per use, but if you need to store it, use the same conditions as above and it will keep a strong flavor for 1-2 weeks.
PREPARATION
- Cracking: Give the pod a firm press with a pestle or a whack with the flat side of a cleaver, just enough to split the husk and expose the seeds inside. Crack it, but don't smash it to pieces.
- Seeding: Many Chinese cooks pull the seeds out of a cracked pod before adding to a master stock, since the seeds can turn a long-simmered broth bitter and astringent. It's a matter of taste. You can leave the seeds in for a bolder, more pungent flavor, or take them out for a smoother one.
- Toasting: Vietnamese cooks sometimes toast their phở spices in a dry skillet over low heat until fragrant.
- Grinding: For spice blends and dry dishes, crack the pods open and pull the seeds out. The seeds are rock-hard, far harder than those of green or black cardamom. Because of this, skip the mortar and pestle and use a powerful electric spice grinder.
COOKING
- How Much to Use: Tsaoko is potent, so less is more. Too much buries the other spices. Chinese cooks add just one or two pods to a whole pot of hot pot broth, and about a teaspoon of ground to a single stew.
- Slow Cooking: The spice gives up its aroma slowly, so it belongs in dishes that braise, stew, or simmer.
- Master Stocks: Tsaoko is a backbone of Chinese lu shui, the soy-based master stock used to braise meats and other foods. It simmers alongside star anise, cassia, Sichuan pepper, licorice, and tangerine peel, often tied in a spice bag, to braise pork, beef, chicken, duck, eggs, and tofu.
- Phở: Vietnamese cooks use it in beef phở, often in place of the cloves and alongside a single star anise. Tie one cracked pod in cheesecloth and add it to the broth, then lift it out once you can smell its fragrance, since it can quickly overpower the other spices.
Bò kho, the Vietnamese beef stew simmered with lemongrass, star anise, and cinnamon. A cracked tsaoko pod often joins the pot, adding a smoky, resinous depth that ties the bright aromatics together.